Lagerfeld Toys

Figuratively Karl

Jessica Bumpus

13 October 2009

KARL LAGERFELD has been immortalised by Japanese-inspired brand Tokidoki as a limited edition miniature figurine.

"I am very flattered that I became a Tokidoki. I always loved them and I am very happy to be one of them," says Lagerfeld of his 25cm-tall counterpart.

Dressed completely in K Karl Lagerfeld and embellished with rhinestones, the figure is the work of Italian artist Simone Legno, who launched Tokidoki - which means "sometimes" in Japanese - in 2005.

"I truly cherish the opportunity to work with Karl Lagerfeld, fashion's living legend and preeminent style icon. In all levels of fashion, ranging from couture down to the street, his design and influence is unsurpassed - and to be able to interpret and incorporate him into my work has been a once-in-a-lifetime experience," explains Legno.

Mini Karl will be launched at Colette this month before hitting selected K Karl Lagerfeld retailers and Tokidoko flagship stores in New York, Milan and Los Angeles. Costing £118, each figure will come with an individually numbered certificate of authenticity. And if you don't manage to get your hands on one of them, there will also be a small selection of T-shirts featuring the designer's new incarnation.

Meanwhile, elsewhere, Lagerfeld has been receiving attention for a different reason. The designer told Focus magazine that people prefer to see slimmer models and those who don't are "fat mummies sitting with their bags of crisps in front of the television, saying that thin models are ugly." The comment came in response to German magazine Brigitte's decision to use ordinary women for their shoots.

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Do you remember when Karl was turned in a Steiff bear as well?

It seems everyone wants a piece of Lagerfeld, as long as it's around 25cm tall. He's a very iconic designer and very easily recognised, whether you're in fashion or not. His continuous style that is everyday basically a black suit, high white collar and large sunglasses with his white hair in a pony tail is very easy to embody in into even a cartoon. Even after his speech of 'fat mummies' I still want him, whether he promoted size zero or not!

This week's top fashion websales

Monday, 12 October 2009

The Outnet

Net-à-Porter's designer outlet hosts a big Donna Karan sale this week with items by the New York designer selling at up to 65 percent off their retail prices. Next up will be French design label Chloé, and one lucky winner will receive a free pair of Jimmy Choos -- just enter your details before October 16.

Site: theoutnet.com

Asos

One of the most popular online fashion stores is holding its big mid-season sale with all items selling at up to 50 percent off.

Site: asos.com

Shopbop

The site is focusing on dresses in its sale section this week, offering styles divided into 'occasions' (a girls' night out, dinner for two or Sunday brunch) at discounts up to 70 percent.

Site: shopbop.com

Beyond the Rack

Hipsters will get their money's worth with Justin Timberlake's label William Rast and LA celebrity boutique Kitson both offering discounts on their items at Beyond the Rack this week. Luxury fans won't be disappointed either: there are Roberto Cavalli sunglasses and Bugatti handbags equally available at a fraction of their prices.

Site: beyondtherack.com

Rue La La

The site's highest-profile sale this week is the one by Vera Wang (from October 14) who willl offer discounts on her Lavender Label range. Rue La La also just launched its iPhone application.

Site: ruelala.com

Editor's Closet

Sportswear by Lacoste is looking a whole lot more affordable this week. Coming up later this week at the Editor's Closet: Elle Macpherson's Intimates collection and Dolce & Gabbana's ready-to-wear.

Site: editorscloset.com

Top Button

Sign up for an account and take part in the website's Paper Denim, Trend Lab and Jessica Simpson sales this week.

Site: topbutton.com

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The last few websites are all members only, where you either have to be invited, have an invite code, or be on a waiting list to join. I have an account with Cocosa.com, and it's not that hard to become a member of, it just took some time. So what's the point? It will only deter people from the site who can't be bothered to sign up. When you apply a membership such as this, either make it easy, or charge people. But at least give them a choice.

Airbrushing Size Zero

Karl Lagerfeld says only 'fat mummies' object to thin models

German designer claims objections to 'size-zero' models are driven by overweight women

Kate Connolly in Berlin, guardian.co.uk, Monday 12 October 2009 15.20 BST

Karl Lagerfeld, the eccentric German fashion tsar, has waded into the debate about size-zero models by saying that people want to look at "skinny models" and classing those who complain as "fat mummies".

Lagerfeld, 71, was reacting to the magazine Brigitte's announcement last week that it will in future use "ordinary, realistic" women rather than professional models in its photo shoots. He said the decision by Germany's most popular women's magazine was "absurd" and driven by overweight women who did not like to be reminded of their weight issues.

"These are fat mummies sitting with their bags of crisps in front of the television, saying that thin models are ugly," said Lagerfeld in an interview with the magazine Focus. The designer, who lost a lot of weight himself when he went on a strict low-carbohydrate diet several years ago, added that the world of fashion was all to do "with dreams and illusions, and no one wants to see round women".

At a time when the fashion world is starting to hit back at the claims that it encourages anorexia, the Hamburg fashion designer John Ribbe, a regular participant in the Paris fashion show, said the row over underweight models had become hysterical.

"It's just as much a cliché as saying that all models take drugs and get drunk at sex orgies," he said.

"Ninety per cent of them are quite normal, properly proportioned girls with less fat and more muscles, who also eat pizzas and burgers."

Brigitte's editor, Andreas Lebert, said that after years of having to "fatten up" pictures of underweight models with Photoshop, the magazine would produce its first edition with non-professional models on 2 January. "We will show women who have their own identity, the 18-year-old A-level student, the company chairwoman, the musician, the footballer," he said.

The decision follows a recent appeal by British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman to major fashion houses to end the "size-zero" culture, and a scandal over a Ralph Lauren advertising campaign in which a model had been thinned down using computer graphics.

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Ralph Lauren has been forced to apologise, after airbrushing a model so much that her head was wider than her waist.

The image used in a recent advertising campaign for the brand's Blue Label jeans featured 21-year-old Filippa Hamilton. Already a slim size 8, the French model had been digitally retouched so much that she was left looking emaciated, and with a ridiculously small waistline.

The American label has now apologised for issuing the image: 'For over 42 years, we have built a brand based on quality and integrity. After further investigation, we have learned that we are responsible for the poor imaging and retouching that resulted in a very distorted image of a woman's body.

'We have addressed the problem and going forward will take every precaution to ensure that the calibre of our artwork represents our brand appropriately,' the statement concluded.

The image first came to light on website Photoshop Disasters, after blog Boing Boing printed images of the advert spotted on Japanese billboards. The image sparked a war-of-words between the blogger and the fashion house, before Ralph Lauren admitted that the image had been their mistake.

Monday 12 October 2009, marieclaire.co.uk

Some examples of Photoshop Disasters from the blog.

Some of these disasters are created so that you look closer at the advert, knowing that something is wrong, and your brain attempts to put fit together the pieces, causing you to look at the advert for longer. This can be through extra fingers, lost legs or out of proportion heads and hands.

Wooden Mirror

I really like these wooden mirrors. They have a camera that reads the image infront of the mirror in grayscale, pixelated, and sends the information to the different robot controlled tiles.

125

Marks & Spencer has creating a new 125 range, celebrating the 125 years of the brand by creating a range of clothing inspired by the vintage archive pieces . Back in May they held a Penny Bazaar where all main chains had items selling for a penny. Well, a penny was the minimum donation for each product (only 5 per person) but customers could offer more.
The full range of special commemorative products consisted of five different jewellery sets, scarves, purses and knickers; cufflinks, ties and socks; leather passport holders and leather luggage tags; tea towels and mugs; bags of retro sweets, cans of retro drink, beach toys, and beach balls. Every penny donated went towards the M&S 125 Charity Challenge, which aimed to raise £1.25m for local and regional charities between May and September 2009.
The collection of clothing seems more suited for the elder generation, but has some nice items. It seems a lot of archive collections are being created to prove tot he public 1. that they have an archive and 2. that their old clothes are just as good as new ones.

Vuitton Takes On Middle East & Asia

Vuitton Expansion

Jessica Bumpus

12 October 2009

LOUIS VUITTON is gearing up for expansion: this year the luxury fashion label has plans to open a store in Lebanon and one in Mongolia, having just opened its latest store in Dubai yesterday.

But that doesn't mean the label is getting too big for its luxury fashion house boots.

"Sometimes in our industry there is a tendency to follow your ego and sometimes open stores where you don't have the market, or stores too big for your potential — we never do that. When we open a big store, we know that there is a market, we know the financials. So we never have to close a store for economic reasons," Louis Vuitton chief executive Yves Carcelle tells DRAPERONLINE.COM.

He added that during 2009, no cuts had been made to investment and, despite there having been fewer store openings this year in comparison to 2008, the same in terms of square metres had been opened.

Louis Vuitton is part of the French luxury retail group LVMH, which counts Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan among its portfolio.

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This news comes after hearing how Versace is closing it's stores in Japan after a fall in profits and news of how the sales of luxury goods has risen in the middle east by 4%.

http://firuzefrench2.blogspot.com/2009/10/versace-quits-japan.html

It's interesting that despite the current climate some brands like Louis Vuitton aren't wary of expansion, instead they welcome it. Whether this is a good decision or not will soon be revealed in their next report.

Streaming Exclusivity

World Wide Marc

Lauren Milligan

12 October 2009

MARC JACOBS has compared the modern representation of fashion to a "spectator sport", following a season in which designers showed collections live on the internet, Tweeted secrets pre-show and released backstage films of their collections being made - but denies the practices make fashion more accessible.

"I don't know if it makes the actual product more egalitarian; it demystifies the experience," Jacobs told WWD. "Any behind-the-scenes look is always telling of the fact that these are all real people doing real jobs and who work really hard. Again, I don't know that that makes the end result more accessible. It just makes the ideas more accessible."

Jacobs - who showed his Louis Vuitton collection in Paris last week - also addressed the idea of how to maintain exclusivity, now that all aspects of the collections can be accessed by the public.

"The idea of luxury and exclusivity now comes in another form," he said. "Luxury isn't necessarily about exclusivity; it's about the quality of the design and the quality of the make. One thing that is so different about Vuitton than any of the other retailers, and any of the other luxury brands - Vuitton never goes on sale. That's a huge risk - and I guess an expense - in these challenging economic times, but apparently it's really worked to their advantage, because it's maintained a certain exclusivity."

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Exclusivity in fashion used to mean limiting the product to the market the brand wanted it to be exposed to. Marc Jacobs is now claiming that by having a wide audience equal rights to view the show, the Louis Vuitton brand is still exclusive because of the products, not because of limiting who sees it. A nice way to put it, I'm glad he's not regretting broadcasting the Louis Vuitton SS10 show live, but he maybe should have regretted putting it on Facebook...

Barbie goes Black

Black Barbie doll range launched

Mattel has launched a new line of black Barbie dolls, trying to dispel previous criticism by giving the models fuller lips, a wider nose and more pronounced cheek bones.

Published: 1:49PM BST 09 Oct 2009

Mattel has launched a new line of black Barbie dolls called 'So In Style' Photo: SPLASH NEWS

The "So In Style" line features Grace, Kara and Trichelle, each with her own style and interests and a little sister she mentors: Courtney, Janessa and Kianna.

The dolls reflect varying skin tones and Trichelle and Kianna have curlier hair.

The designs are a far cry from Christie, Barbie's black friend who appeared in the 1960s and was essentially a white doll painted brown

Barbie designer Stacey McBride-Irby, who is black and has a 6-year-old daughter, said she wanted to create a line of dolls for young black girls that looked like them and were inspirational and career-minded.

"I want them to see themselves within these dolls, and let them know that black is beautiful," she said.

Barbie's previous attempts to produce black models were criticised for failing to reflect different physiognomies and reinforcing attitudes that long, straight hair is often considered more beautiful than short kinky hair.

Miss McBride-Irby said she originally designed all the dolls with long hair. Combing her Barbie's long hair when she was a girl was the "highlight of my play experience," she said. She was advised to create some dolls with curlier hair, so she did.

There is a So In Style hairstyling set so girls can curl, straighten and style their dolls' hair over and over. (It costs $24.99, more than a pair of dolls at $19.99.)

That is troubling to Sheri Parks, an associate professor of American Studies at the University of Maryland in College Park, because it actively involves girls in the process of straightening hair. She worries that it reinforces the message that there is something wrong with natural hair.

"Black mothers who want their girls to love their natural hair have an uphill battle and these dolls could make it harder," Ms Parks said in an e-mail.

Barbie, which celebrated her 50th birthday in March, has for years come under fire for promoting an unrealistic body image, with her long legs, tiny waist and large breasts.

While white girls also deal with body-image issues, Kumea Shorter-Gooden, co-author of "Shifting: The Double Lives of Black Women in America," believes the problem is even more of an issue for black children.

Mattel doesn't release sales figures. But Michelle Chidoni of Mattel said the new range of dolls, launched last month, are resonating with girls of all colors and ages.

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Remember PPQ's Spring Summer 2010 show? All black models chosen for their shade of skin. Is it just me, or would it be racist if it were white women instead? Why is it only racist if it's against the minority? I'm not saying that it's a bad thing PPQ did, I'm just saying it's a shame that we live in a culture with double standards.

Anyway, Barbie Dolls. Interesting that they've given them a different shape, with wider hips and lots of jewellery. They're stereotyping what black women look like, but I've never seen a stereotypical Barbie, only some women who dress like Barbie.

Will the colour of the new Barbie Doll's skin determine where in America the dolls will be sold?

Bloggerty Blog

20 best fashion blogs

They’re sharp and witty – and so influential that these days they get to sit on the front row at the catwalk shows. They’re the fashion bloggers. Here’s our guide to the ones you’d be fools to miss.

By Glenn Waldron
Published: 10:00AM BST 08 Oct 2009

It’s taken a while but fashion has finally woken up to the internet. Online shops such as Asos and Net-a-porter are booming, brands such as Yves Saint Laurent are using short YouTube-friendly films to showcase their designs, and fashion designers are Tweeting like there’s no tomorrow.

In the midst of this bold new landscape are the bloggers – providing commentary at the click of a mouse. Whether they’re posting catwalk images live from Paris, drooling over the latest Balenciaga wedges or writing about Lindsay Lohan’s dress sense (or lack thereof), they have become an important part of the industry and a voice for a new generation of style aficionados.

'Right now they’re at the forefront of fashion news and gossip,’ says Isaac Lock, the deputy editor of Love, the new magazine from the super-stylist Katie Grand. 'Pretty much anything new hits the blogs first nowadays.’

Indeed, some blogs aren’t just breaking news, they’re making it. Late last year when the designer Marc Jacobs allegedly stuck his tongue out at the journalist Suzy Menkes on the New York catwalk, it was Cathy Horyn, the fashion critic for the New York Times, who fuelled the scandal with her blog posts on the Moment.

While blogs such as the Moment and Catwalk Queen are fantastic for delivering a daily fashion fix, it’s the more personal sites that are receiving most attention.

Bloggers such as the Sartorialist and Style Bubble – both about the blogger’s individual take on fashion, from a self-confessed amateur point of view – have become a sensation.

The Sartorialist was named by Time magazine as one of the most influential forces in design, and Susanna Lau, the creator of Style Bubble, is given a front-row seat at Chanel shows.

So what’s the secret to a great fashion blog? As Lau says, 'It isn’t necessarily about providing information, but having an individual voice. It’s really important for you to stand out.’ Here, then, are our favourites…

• ashadedviewonfashion.com

While many bloggers like to remain anonymous, Diane Pernet positively welcomes the attention. A true fashion eccentric, the American-born journalist and editor is frequently spotted on the front row of fashion shows dressed head-to-toe in black with a voluminous veil. Based in Paris for the past 20 years, she blogs all about young talent – it’s a great place to spot a future Alexander McQueen or Raf Simons.

• bryanboy.com

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Cour Carrée Musée du Louvre Paris

The lovely Fred of Easy Fashion, one of my favourite French streetstyle blogs, took this wonderful photo of me at the Cour Carrée Musée du Louvre where the Louis Vuitton show took place yesterday.

Jacket, leather pants and shoes from Rad Hourani, Chanel bag, Marc Jacobs sunglasses, Topshop t-shirt.

Between you and me, I'm shocked that I look nice (ok, presentable, but I could've WERQED the LOOQUE harder) in this photo. I was all sweaty, coughing, huffing and puffing when I got to the show venue because I sprinted (in five inch heels) from the wrong metro station. Not good.

But the result, well, voila, pas mal...

Thank you Fred!

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Bryan Boy is a star. On his diary-like blog he sounds like a giddy fashion-obsessed teenager, dreaming of Lanvin trainers and next season’s clothes by label-of-the-moment Balmain. In real life, however, the 22-year-old from Manila has become a serious industry player – today Bryan is flown to the international shows, all expenses paid, and hangs out with Christopher Bailey, the Burberry designer. Oh, and Marc Jacobs has even named a bag after him.

• catwalkqueen.tv

One of the first fashion blogs on the scene, Catwalk Queen began as a labour of love for the London College of Fashion student Gemma Cartwright. Today it boasts more hits per day than Vogue’s website. Great for celebrity style gossip, secret sample sales and exclusive fashion collaborations. It even has its own YouTube channel.

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Pretty much like Marie Claire.com, this site really only has popularity because it's about celebrities and fashion. Vogue.com has more for me to look at considering it has important news about the business of fashion and things to look out for, whereas this blog is like mine - it reports on what the current news is.

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• facehunter.blogspot.com

'Real people on the street can be just as inspiring and creative as top models in magazines,’ says Yvan Rodic, the man behind the street-photography blog Facehunter. Always travelling the globe on the lookout for new subjects on the streets from Reykjavík to Vienna, Rodic is more interested in personal style than in keeping things on-trend. It’s well worth a visit just to see the sheer variety of retina-popping looks on display. 'It’s eye candy for the style hungry,’ he says.

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Street trends, subcultures and the style of the nation, this blog is mainly photographs of people Yvan Rodic finds interesting. Although I'm going to aim my project at these fashion conscious people, it would benefit me more to speak with these people than to check what they're wearing every day.

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• feelslikewhitelightning.com

Whether she’s lusting after the new resort collection from Giles Deacon or a vintage Jean-Paul Gaultier bustier, Elizabeth Spiridakis has a love of fashion bordering on the obsessive. The fact that she can’t actually afford most of the items she writes about only adds to the charm of her blog. Currently on a road-trip across Europe and America, Spiridakis seems to spend most of her time moving from one charity shop to the next. Such is her clout that she now gets recognised everywhere she goes.

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i hope you weren't so put off by the weird furry neo-uggs and questionable use of a cavaricci-esque pant so as to miss the BEST THING ABOUT LOUIS VUITTON (save the afros, doy):

LOUIS VUITTON S/S 2010

these hairytail JANGLEBAGS are my new EVERYTHING.

GIANT JANGLES THAT HAPPEN TO BE BAGS!
they can hold things, but not too many things. flat things. like your phone and some necco wafers, no cash though because you spent it all on giant racoontailz.

DEAR MARC JACOBS, PLEASE SEND ME ONE...please?

Posted by white lightning at 12:31 PM 2 comments

• gofugyourself.com

For a quick fix of celebrity fashion disasters, Go Fug Yourself can’t be beaten. The creation of Jessica Morgan and Heather Cocks, the blog rounds up the latest paparazzi shots from the red carpet and passes judgement on the good, the bad and the 'fugly’ (a merging of 'ugly’ and another, less print-worthy word). Comments range from the cruel – in one shot Lindsay Lohan is said to resemble an 'Easter bunny caught gnawing on his own chocolate-egg stash’ – to the even crueller, but all done with a brilliant sense of humour. Proof that fashion really has no mercy.

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I don't really need to know the ins and outs of celebrity lifestyle, so there's not much point in me focusing my research here. If my project does lead towards celebrities, I can keep this blog in mind.

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• jakandjil.com

The photographer Tommy Ton gives good shoe. Like the Sartorialist, Ton shoots fashionistas on the street, but for the 25-year-old Canadian the focus is on footwear. If you want to know which styles the high street will be copying in six months, then this is the place to look. Jak & Jil has become a big success, with 30,000 hits per day. In his hometown of Toronto, one department store has even created a Tommy Ton mannequin.

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What I like about the Jak & Jil blog is that the photographs taken aren't posed, they're like candid, paparazzi shots, giving a more natural look to the clothes the girls & boys are wearing, rather than having them posed and looking like they're out of an ad. I'll keep looking at this blog just because I like the photography.

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• libertylondongirl.blogspot.com

When Sir Philip Green announced plans to launch Topshop in America every newspaper and magazine was beaten to the scoop by Liberty London Girl, an anonymous British fashion editor living in New York. Her blog doesn’t just trade in great fashion gossip, however; this girl blogs on everything from the fashion world’s prejudice against big busts to last night’s bad date, all with a big dollop of very British humour. If you’ve ever wondered what it must be like to live a real-life version of The Devil Wears Prada, this is probably it.

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This blog is now in my favourites, and is one that I want to keep looking back to. She seems to get great scoops in the fashion world and has some great news articles. Definitely one to keep an eye on.

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The Saatchi Gallery & Channel 4's four New Sensations 2009

4 New Sensations was launched in 2007 by Channel 4 and The Saatchi Gallery to find the twenty most imaginative and talented artists graduating in the UK this year. The judges were artist Gavin Turk; Ralph Rugoff, director of the Hayward Gallery, London; critic Louisa Buck; and Alison Jacques, owner of Alison Jacques Gallery in London.

I am very, very proud of my friend Maurice Citron whose work is included in the exhibition. A talented painter and sculptor, he studied at Chelsea and has just graduated from the MA programme at Byam Shaw.

In addition to his inclusion in the New Sensations show, he currently has a residency at The Florence Trust, has just been shortlisted for the Clifford Chance Sculpture Award 2009, and found out yesterday that he has been picked for inclusion in Future Map, the annual exhibition of the best emerging talent from the current graduating year (9152 students) of the six colleges of the University of the Arts London. Yay! Go Mo!

4 New Sensations is at The A Foundation at the Rochelle School, Arnold Circus, Shoreditch from 9-19 October (12-6pm, Thursday 15 October until 8pm).

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• madamesays.com

Pippa Brooks is the coolest mum on the net. A co-owner of the boutique M Goldstein, DJ and former pop star, she’s also the mother to seven-year-old twins Joe and Duke. Her blog covers their impeccably dressed adventures around London. 'They dress themselves, can peel carrots, write stuff and have all sorts of opinions of their own,’ she writes. For anyone trying to balance the creative with the domestic – and still have fun – her blog is a must.

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A blog intended more for the elder audience, the decision to look at this blog will depend on how my project is being directed. Again, I can keep an eye on the blog in case anything comes up.

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• nymag.com/daily/fashion

Are you wondering what Michelle Obama is wearing today? Then check out MObama Watch, a day-by-day rundown of First Lady fashion. Alongside this brilliant guilty pleasure, New York Magazine’s blog offers a host of stylish attractions – from video look-books with Daphne Guinness to catwalk reviews. Its guide to the best buys of the season – right now they’re loving Diane von Furstenberg’s Sweetheart Pant – is also bang on the money.

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A great blog to hear a really fresh opinion on fashion that isn't directed at earning cash or publicising brands. Already favourited.

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• redcarpet-fashionawards.com

Working from her rented studio-flat in north London, Catherine Kallon, a 34-year-old entrepreneur and ex-PA, is taking on Hollywood with her blog. The site itself is a mix of style news and 'who wore it best’ vote-offs. But it’s Kallon’s photographic memory that has made the blog such a hit – when Angelina Jolie wore a Max Azria dress back-to-front at an awards ceremony this year, Kallon was the only writer to identify it. This has made her a favourite with the glossies, and attracted fans including Stella McCartney and Miuccia Prada.

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Another celebrity based blog, it will depend on where my project research takes me. Interesting to look at, but I'm not too keen on reading more on the lives of celebrities.

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• stylebubble.typepad.com

One of the blogosphere’s biggest fashion icons, Susanna Lau (aka Susie Bubble) started her online diary in March 2006. Style Bubble sees Lau, a Londoner, playing dress-up with new purchases and offering her thoughts on everything from fellow bloggers to the rebirth of Miss Selfridge. Thanks to its infectious tone, Style Bubble has become one of the most widely read fashion blogs, receiving 20,000 hits a day. No surprises, then, that Lau was recently recruited to the online arm of Dazed & Confused magazine. Fans needn’t worry, however – the blog is still going strong despite the day job.

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I saw Susie Bubble at the last GFW show for my uni. I heard from someone on the journalism course that she went to interview her, and she was quite stuck up about her status. She gets around, and so gets a lot of content for her blog, but I'm not looking for something obvious, I want something in my project that's unexpected and not by someone who's directly within the fashion industry, her information would be similar to looking at Hilary Alexander's articles.

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• tavi-thenewgirlintown.blogspot.com

Like many of her fellow style-bloggers, Tavi Gevinson posts pictures of herself in cool charity-shop finds and loves dissecting catwalk trends. Unlike most of them, however, Tavi is 13. A self-confessed 'tiny dork’ who loves the high-fashion labels Luella, Charles Anastase and Comme des Garçons, the Chicago schoolgirl has already been profiled by the New York Times and launched her own T-shirt line. Her biggest problem right now? Finding designer togs that fit.

• thelovemagazineblog.wordpress.com

When Katie Grand left Pop magazine to start up a new venture with the publishing house Condé Nast, the fashion world was buzzing with excitement. The resulting magazine, Love, has certainly lived up to expectations and its blog is a neat window on to life on the precipice of cool. Alongside catwalk news and Twitter updates from Pixie Geldof, the site also features pictures of the Love staffers with pals including Justin Timberlake, Beth Ditto, and their pet rabbit, Clara.

• themoment.blogs.nytimes.com

There are very few blogs that could persuade Donatella Versace to be guest editor for the day or ask Frida Giannini, the Gucci designer, to send in her holiday snaps. Such is the persuasive power of the Moment, the blog by the New York Times T magazine. Covering fashion, beauty, design and travel, the blog’s recent highlights have included an exclusive preview of Madonna’s Givenchy tour costumes, a celebration of vintage Pucci and the return of recycled jewellery.

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A bit more like a general themed blog than directed at fashion, I'm not too sure how relevant the content will be to me. I'll keep and eye out, but won't keep my hopes up.

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• thesartorialist.com

Since launching in 2005, Scott Schuman’s blog has become a phenomenon. The formula itself is straightforward: the diminutive New Yorker travels the globe shooting simple portraits of well-dressed individuals including fashion insiders such as Carine Roitfeld, the editor of French Vogue, as well as stylish passers-by on the street. It’s Schuman’s eye for detail that sets his images apart. He has recently made the transition from 'street photography’ to advertising campaigns for DKNY Jeans, and has even modelled for Gap.

• theselby.com

Almost like a 2009 version of Through the Keyhole, the Selby features pictures, videos and paintings of hip homes around the world – from Manhattan apartments to cute basement flats in east London, all belonging to the likes of Peaches Geldof, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and the model Erin Wasson. The blog started out as a side project for Todd Selby, a photographer, who began his career shooting fashion and portraits, but has since grown into something a whole lot bigger. 'I wanted to look at people’s houses and surroundings and try to tell more of a story,’ he explains.

• thethoughtfuldresser.blogspot.com

Created by the novelist and Stella contributor Linda Grant, the Thoughtful Dresser has witty musings on all things clothes related. Whether she’s answering tricky questions such as 'How many shoes does a girl need?’ (Crocs don’t count, obviously) or discussing female dress codes in Iran, Grant is one of the sharpest fashion writers around. She’s also launching the Great Mutton Debate on her site, a lively discussion of 'age-appropriate’ dressing for the over-fifties.

• whatisjameswearing.com

James Andrew is the ultimate dandy. Every day the New York-based interior designer posts pictures of himself in the latest designer threads. The results often verge on the fantastical – James never travels without pocket squares – but his Gatsby-meets-Gucci style has attracted a legion of fans. 'It’s our favourite blog of the moment and possibly of all time,’ declared Elle Decoration.

• whatkatiewore.com

Started in January by an east London couple, Joe and Katie, this blog will warm the hearts of even the most stony fashion scenesters. Documenting what the eccentric Katie wears every day of 2009, Joe comments on each outfit, with praise ranging from 'truly beautiful’ to 'very pretty indeed’. When that refers to sequin tunics, curtain ties from B&Q and a host of coloured tights, you have to applaud this sartorially enlightened male. A blog to forward to partners everywhere.

Magazines do Dating sites?

INTERNET dating is like autumn/winter's Louis Vuitton bunny ears: probably plenty of fun but pretty scary for most people too. Or like your winter Ugg boot obsession: totally understandable and great in the comfort of your own home, but not something you would brag about at a chic cocktail party - until now.

TRULYMADLYDATING.COM is Conde Nast International's first dating site, supported by GLAMOUR.COM and GQ.COM, and created to unite glamorous girls with fashion-conscious GQ-reading boys to create matches made in style heaven.

The site is easy to use - including free profile creation and browsing, and a two-way compatibility system to help find your match - and there are thousands of profiles already online.

Lauren Milligan

09 October 2009

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Condé Nast Publications, Inc. is a worldwide magazine publishing company. Its main offices are located in London, Madrid, Miami, Milan, New York, Paris and Tokyo. Condé Nast is run by S.I. Newhouse Jr. So why dating? Now, I know fashion is meant to be sociable, but surely it's a bit of a risk setting up a dating site to compete with Match.com and eHarmony.com? But then again, it'd be interesting to see the types of men that join the site. You can imagine GQ magazine: Hello boys who read GQ, find girls who read Glamour, you know, the one with the articles like "Why is he no good in bed", "How to lose weight and be obsessed with yourself" oh, and of course all those agony aunt articles that are so educational. Sorry no Meghan Fox here." I doubt there would be many. They should just have created a "creative" site where like minding people can answer questions like Yahoo Answers and create directories like LinkedIn for the fashion business. Unless there are a lot of lesbians in the fashion industry, I'm guessing there will be a lot of disappointed girls looking for guys, or some lucky guys who get 100 emails a day because they're one of 10 guys. Just stick to Match.com, there are more chances and there are 6 month guarantees.

Prada Blueprint

ALREADY the foundations of many a woman's wardrobe Prada is about to take this one step further with its latest project, JWP Epicentre - a collection of souvenir T-shirts depicting the floor plans and fronts of Prada's most famous stores; Aoyama in Tokyo, Beverly Hills in Los Angeles, Broadway in New York, Old Bond Street in London and Galleria and Montenapoleone Uomo e Donna in Milan.


Featuring overlapping graphic designs, the idea behind the T-shirts is that they become a souvenir, serving as a visual and literal reminder of each particular city. The result is a busy and hectic print in a bid to recreate the non-stop nature of Prada's creative process.

In colours in accordance to each store, the unisex T-shirts are available this month and in sizes XXS to XXL, costing £135.

Jessica Bumpus

09 October 2009

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A unique idea to let more consumers buy Prada for less. By having a collection that is created with a wider audience in mind, it makes the label seem more available and more friendly, bringing new, happy customers. Prada has always had it's toe in Art and Architecture, but it's a nice surprise to have the prints based on Prada stores. Hopefully you'll be able to buy different prints in the same store, because I've been to the Prada in Rome, but not in London, and know which friendlier store I'd want on my t-shirt.

Charity with Campbell

NAOMI CAMPBELL is teaming up with Louis Vuitton in the name of charity.

The supermodel has chosen one of the label's bags to sell and raise money for the White Ribbon Alliance, an organisation dedicated to reducing maternal mortality worldwide and for which she is also a global ambassador.

"I think it's going to sell really well," Campbell tells WWD of the square-shaped bag with canvas stitched strips.

Its launch will coincide with the 100th anniversary of International Women's Day next March. The bag will be available at Louis Vuitton stores priced 1,900 euros.

Jessica Bumpus

09 October 2009

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Selling in the name of charity is such an easy way out for model citizens like Naomi. What happened to doing it like Lady Di? The price of the bag won't invite millions of buyers, so only a small portion will go to charity. It's ridiculous.

Wet Wet Wet

John Galliano's Smoke Bubbles

The fates really conspired against John Galliano at the Paris prêt-a-porter season last night.

Firstly, he appeared to have been pushed into using the ghastly Halle Freyssinet as a location; no one in their right mind would willingly choose to show in this unlovely, dank, cold warehouse, near an underpass, in the 13th arrondissement, a good 30-40 minutes drive from the centre of town.

Secondly, he had an 8.30pm time-slot; cue general groan from press and buyers, anticipating – rightly, as it turned out – a late start, 9pm at the earliest.

And, thirdly, perhaps most unfairly, the heavens opened in Paris at around 8pm. It was more a case of “après le deluge, moi!”

Torrential rain, thunder, lightning, this little meteorological event had it all. The streets were awash; “une piscine,” said our driver, negotiating a foot-deep lake that had suddenly appeared on the road along the Seine.

The rehearsal had barely started when crowds began arriving at the ‘loading bay’ of this ghastly venue. A lucky few got into the covered foyer; many stood standing in the rain. Among the slightly-drenched; a furious Carine Roitfeld, editor-in-chief of French Vogue. “I wait all this time in the rain and you can’t even give me a glass of water,” she stormed at a hapless PR, who would have been better off with a bucket than a clipboard – as the roof had started leaking.

How did Prince arrive for his front-row seat, in a bright red suit, looking as fresh as a daisy and as dry as a bone. And was the singer Katy Perry, who came on the arm of Russell Brand, parachuted in? How else to explain the fact the hem of her trailing, pink carpet gown, showed not a touch of damp?

With an increasingly angry crowd, many seated under the drips, the show eventually started nearly an hour late. Under such unfortunate circumstances, it is hardly surprising the show was not greeted with rapturous joy. Which is a shame, since the updated ‘Sunset Boulevard’ theme (snatches of the original dialogue from Billy Wilder’s 1950 movie, opened the show), and story of a silver screen heroine deciding what to wear for her comeback, was perfectly suited to Galliano’s signature, boho-glamour: 50s-look, tailored jackets, with lace and floral slip-dresses, and long, bias-cut gowns, accessorised with millinery confections by Stephen Jones.

Dear John, We love you. But please, next time, can you choose a venue closer to town? One even within shouting distance of a nice café or restaurant, would be thrilling – especially after a 12-hour day!

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This is why designers are showing their collections online: to avoid the "used to being pampered" press and celebs who will judge the show solely on whether they wait in the rain or in a cafe. Put of the entire report by Hilary Alexander, the clothing only gets one paragraph.

Well, from someone who wasn't pissed off at being in the rain, the show was typical Galliano, dark, sinister and bohemian.

"John Galliano delivered a sartorial remake of "Sunset Boulevard," recasting its tragic heroine - the faded screen siren Norma Desmond - as a tough cookie whose iron will and magpie eye allow her to prevail in the end." (The Canadian Press)

Romantic

Versace Quits Japan

VERSACE has revealed that, after nearly 30 years operating there, it is set to pull out of Japan - ceasing all retail operations there by the end of the month.

The Italian label's withdrawal, which included the closure of four standalone stores and its Tokyo office, appears to confirm the consumer slump currently being experienced by one of the world's largest luxury markets - and hints that the recovery may not be swift.

Versace is not the only luxury label to experience the sharp end of Japan's declining market, LVMH - owner of some of Japan's most popular labels including Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Celine, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, Kenzo and Emilio Pucci - has also suffered a 20 per cent dip in sales in the first half of the year. In contrast, the company's sales in the rest of Asia increased by four per cent over the same period, the Financial Times reports, and contributed 24 per cent of LVMH's first half revenues versus Japan's 11 per cent.

Louis Vuitton has also cancelled plans to open its largest store the Ginza district of Tokyo next year; Marni closed a store in the Marunouchi area after nearly five years; whilst Chanel also closed a boutique in the southwestern district of Kyushu in the past year.

Lauren Milligan

08 October 2009

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It makes sense that Asia's sales in luxury goods have risen, but having stores fail in Japan was unexpected. It's a luxury label capital, they love it out there, so has the recession really affected Japan so much that the Japanese will have to revert to fakes?

3RD CENTRAL

3rd Central with Alexander Wang

HE'S the designer behind the art of dressing down, New York-style, and he's coming to London's Selfridges store next week: Alexander Wang.

To celebrate the store's new 3rd Central concept - a space dedicated to its contemporary and denim collections including Marc by Marc Jacobs and Markus Lupfer - the designer has recreated his New York studio in the department store, complete with furniture he's shipped in specially, as well as creating an exclusive capsule collection of signature pieces, which will only be available in Selfridges.

Fans will be able to meet Wang from 5.30pm to 6.15pm on October 13 as he makes a special in-store appearance to launch all the fashion fun.

Jessica Bumpus

08 October 2009

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Meet Alexander Wang at Selfridges

Meet cult designer Alexander Wang on Tuesday 13 October from 5.30pm until 6.15pm as he makes a special appearance in-store to launch his new concept boutique on 3rd Central!

Don’t miss the exclusive capsule collection Wang has created especially for Selfridges this season. The American designer continues to cause a stir this season with his must-have pieces literally flying off the shelves. Clean and classic refined silhouettes mix with an urban street undertone to create a look that is always individual, sexy and stylish.

The new collection is glossy and tailored with high-shine fabrics. Contrast is a key theme in the collection; sexiness versus androgyny and wild-child versus sleek and controlled. Be sure to be one of the first to snap this up when it launches in September!

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I think 3rd Central is a great idea for Selfridges to allow more designers instore, but less permanently. It's not quite a unique idea as there are many stores that have had concession stands in store, but is it really worth having another designer in a designer store? I was thinking it would be nice to have a stall that has everything you need in the fashion world- a Rolex watch, a Marc Jacobs bag, Jimmy Choo shoes, all the typical, obligatory items a fashionista (with a lot of cash) would have.

Trickle Down Fashion

The Matthew Williamson Dress, from the Spring Summer 2009 Catwalk show. Notice the shape of the bandeau and the jewels on the pockets. It sells for around £900.


Lipsy's Version, on Asos.com, sells for £65.


Boohoo.com's Jasmine Statement Jewel Cocktail Dress, sells for £25.

This just shows how influential catwalk designers really are. When it comes to them designing a wearable product, the result is copies. Lipsy would have to be the worst criminal, as their current collection is pretty much solely based on the Matthew Williamson dress.
I guess it's to be expected, and nice to have a choice.

LOUIS VUITTON

An antidote to last season

Well, still no word on why they'd chosen Facebook to show their latest collection, unless they were trying to be funny. Whether it was Marc Jacob's intention or not, I couldn't take the clothes seriously with those Annie afros! The shoes as well (not a high heel in sight) looked like little dogs running along the floor. Very, very cute!




Most of the shots are midriff as it was really the only close up shot of the bags, (if only we had those Alexander McQueen cameras) which were very similar to the bags I had in the 90s: Bum bags, sacks and little rucksacks. It was very playful, with short skirts and cycling shorts underneath resembling sportswear and the new subculture that opposes anything punk so switches to looking like they were out of Party of Five. Add some high tone colours, tassels, embellishment and check prints and you've got a Louis Vuitton collection.




One thing I really liked from the bags were the hanging fur (I forget what they're called) that look like a rabbit's foot, and long tassels on small bags. It made it look like the accessories on the bags were making them, and I can bet there'll be an increase in sales of their bag charms next year.

Look, It's really from Savile Row

SAVILE Row tailoring is already a benchmark of quality across the world and now the bespoke landmark is set to make things official. The Savile Row Bespoke association is pushing for a "kitemark" which will distinguish its handmade suits from nearby cut-price competitors.

"Our members are facing a lot of young customers whose fathers had not brought them to the tailor," Anda Rowland, a Savile Row Bespoke Association board member told the London Lite. "A lot of younger men have no idea what they are looking for."

The association hopes that the application to brand the Savile Row name will help customers understand the difference in quality between a £500 "made-to-order" suit and a £3000 bespoke one. If successful the official appellation contrôlée protection order would give the suits the same protection as Champagne and Parma Ham.

Lauren Milligan

07 October 2009

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Does anyone remember all those protests that were going on about Abercrombie & Fitch being on Savile Row? It was a way of literally murdering the tailors. These big stupid American companies thinking they know London. Do you really think the people of Savile Row will buy from there? Instead Savile Row is a mix of those who buy the elite versions of fashion, and teenagers looking for a t-shirt with a logo stitched to it.

Personally, I would prefer to spend £500 than £3,000 on a suit, but if I had the money, I'd definitely be on Savile Row. Their quality is world famous, and I'm surprised they haven't had a kitemark before now. Did you know that when you go to buy a suit in the oldest tailor on Saville Row, there is no price tag, no demand for £3,000, they only have an understanding with the customer that they will pay, and they pay what they think the suit is worth. It sounds like it's an age old agreement made 200 years ago.

Hopefully Savile Row will continue to make suits that, like Parma Ham, are worth more than their weight in Gold.

Oh Well Hermès

Heritage And Quality

Lauren Milligan

07 October 2009

Hermès Winter at Last AW2009 campaign

THE recession might bring drops in prices - or at least waiting lists - but your hopes will be dashed if you have your sights set on an Hermès bag. Ceo of the French luxury label Patrick Thomas insists that the house will have no part in "masstige" - his term for mass produced prestige goods - and that the key to weathering the recession lies in maintaining the quality synonymous with the brand's history.

"We don't grow as fast as we could," Thomas told the Financial Times, "because we do not want to waste the image and the heritage that this company has developed in six generations just to make short term money. It would be a capital sin when you have an asset, a jewel like Hermès."

The brand - which had only 300 artisans when Thomas joined in 1989 - now employs 2,000 people capable of producing an Hermès bag, but each takes years to train and, Thomas explains, due to an increase in demand two-year waiting lists are still to be reduced.

"It is shocking to have to wait two to three years, so we try to train as many craftsmen as we can," Thomas explained. "If people buy an Hermès bag, they know it is going to last them for 40 years...it is very different from buying a bag that you are going to throw away at the end of the season."

Thomas also rubbished suggestions that Hermès are contemplating investing in struggling jewellery Asprey after purchasing its New Bond Street store (read more about the acquisition here), insisting it was a "property investment".

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Hermès Winter at Last AW2009 campaign

It's a shame, but really Hermès makes a good point. If you ignore the over used word of Heritage, you are left with a brand that will promise you to deliver quality and sustainability. They are being smart in not developing the company at this time as they think doing something like a flash sale will only put Hermès at the top temporarily, and it will then be forgotten when the next label does the same thing. If you buy Hermès you're not buying something that you'll just keep in the wardrobe after using it, you're investing in assets, buying something timeless, and something that will never ever lose it's worth. It will be interesting to see how Hermès manages advertising campaigns with this in mind.