Milan Fashion Week: Gucci
Hilary Alexander reviews the Gucci spring/summer 2010 collection from Milan Fashion Week.
Stark, white extreme sportswear, sculpted to the body, stretched taut to the curves, and detailed with silver hardware, corset-lacing, mesh-inserts and suggestive cut-outs, shot Gucci out of the starting blocks at Milan Fashion Week today.
Was this creative director Frida Giannini’s look ahead to the 2012 Olympics? Or a high-tech exploration of modern woman as no mere ‘gym-bunny’ but a super-athlete?
It was a little of both. The extreme sports elements were myriad: Glistening silver latches, cinches, pulleys, and technical clasps were all used to create a futuristic, super-sexy, body-conscious silhouette, whether shown in body-suits, leggings or dresses.
Over the top came moto-cross jackets, crafted in python and leather, thronged to within an inch of their lives, and sporting similar heavy metal ‘furniture’.
Giannini turned the LBD into a second-skin, tethered with harness-straps and intricate, metal, embroidered “cages”, and clasped at the waist with a metal, Gucci horse-bit and silken cord belt.
In complete contrast were her “magic carpet” dresses, as clinging as massage oil, but printed, beaded and embroidered with the intricate kilim patterns of Uzbekistan or Turkmenistan and the Ikat patterns of Indonesia.
These tribal patterns of The Steppes and Asia came in cobalt, black and white, fluoro-orange, black and white, or in a gleaming, metallic strawberry pink.
The effect was electric, especially when worn with black, strappy, spike-heeled ‘stocking boots’.
Giannini also reinvented the vamp’s tuxedo suit, with a black stretch DJ, completely backless so as to expose the multi-strapped bodice beneath, and worn with diagonal, cut-out leggings and boots.