12/10/2009

Streaming Exclusivity

World Wide Marc

MARC JACOBS has compared the modern representation of fashion to a "spectator sport", following a season in which designers showed collections live on the internet, Tweeted secrets pre-show and released backstage films of their collections being made - but denies the practices make fashion more accessible.

"I don't know if it makes the actual product more egalitarian; it demystifies the experience," Jacobs told WWD. "Any behind-the-scenes look is always telling of the fact that these are all real people doing real jobs and who work really hard. Again, I don't know that that makes the end result more accessible. It just makes the ideas more accessible."

Jacobs - who showed his Louis Vuitton collection in Paris last week - also addressed the idea of how to maintain exclusivity, now that all aspects of the collections can be accessed by the public.

"The idea of luxury and exclusivity now comes in another form," he said. "Luxury isn't necessarily about exclusivity; it's about the quality of the design and the quality of the make. One thing that is so different about Vuitton than any of the other retailers, and any of the other luxury brands - Vuitton never goes on sale. That's a huge risk - and I guess an expense - in these challenging economic times, but apparently it's really worked to their advantage, because it's maintained a certain exclusivity."

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Exclusivity in fashion used to mean limiting the product to the market the brand wanted it to be exposed to. Marc Jacobs is now claiming that by having a wide audience equal rights to view the show, the Louis Vuitton brand is still exclusive because of the products, not because of limiting who sees it. A nice way to put it, I'm glad he's not regretting broadcasting the Louis Vuitton SS10 show live, but he maybe should have regretted putting it on Facebook...

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